Dos and Don’ts for Kitbashing

More modellers are keen to attempt kitbashing conversions as part of their modelling experience. There are many challenges to consider when starting out. Before taking knife, saw and putty to your pristine kit, take a moment for some friendly guidance.

With input from our members at Orangeville Scale Modellers, we have compiled our favourite Dos and Don’ts to help you have a pleasant model converting experience

DON’T get putty on unwanted areas. Surround the area being worked on with masking tape before applying the putty.

DON’T apply modelling putty in one thick layer. Most modelling putties shrink as they dry. To help avoid this, apply several thin layers.

DON’T risk damaging your model by trying to remove excess putty or filler by scraping or grinding. Any extra material can be removed by gently rubbing the area with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol.

DON’T paint any part of a model before test fitting the piece in its final position (this is especially necessary for the hood). Having to sand down and re-paint a finished piece to make it fit doesn’t do much for building enthusiasm, and can result in sloppy work.

DO fill small holes that may run completely through a part by simply backing the hole from the inside with a layer of masking tape. Then apply your favourite putty. After drying, remove the tape and continue where you left off.

DO take advantage of the ability of sanding sticks to be trimmed and shaped for sanding odd body contours.

DO hold sandpaper with a tweezers to get at hard to reach areas. Recessed panels and tight spots are almost impossible to sand successfully using your fingers to hold the sandpaper. Here’s a great way to reach those tight areas. Cut a very narrow strip of sandpaper about 1″ long, fold it over lengthwise, and insert in into the end of a slide-locking tweezers with about 1/4″ left protruding. When both sides are too worn to sand any further, simply make a new fold, continuing until the whole strip is used.

DO mark a model body for modifications using a pen or thin marker that won’t rub off when the part is handled.

Be aware of the signs of investment fraud

Town of Mono, ON (Mono Community Policing)
Can you spot a scam artist? Probably not at first glance.

Scam artists look just like the rest of us, and they often use charm and charisma to get you to drop your guard and invest in schemes that are too good to be true. But the Ontario Securities Commission (OSC) says investors can help protect themselves by watching for these warning signs:

Unsolicited offers
The person offering you the investment doesn’t know your financial situation, risk tolerance or investing experience. How can they have your best interests in mind?

Guaranteed high returns
Very few investments are truly guaranteed. Those that are guaranteed, such as GICs, will usually offer lower rates of return.

Investing in a company that’s “about to go public”
It’s generally illegal to “pre-sell” shares to the public before securities regulators have approved the company’s final prospectus.

Hot tips or insider information
Insider trading is illegal. Question the motives of anyone who tries to sell you securities based on “insider information” about a company that they claim is not generally known.

Limited-time offers
If an investment opportunity is legitimate, it will still be there once you’ve checked into it.

Don’t give into sales pressure. Before you invest, call the OSC to check the registration and qualifications of the person or company selling you the investment.

To learn more, read the brochure Protect your money: Avoiding frauds and scams. Order free copies of investor brochures at www.osc.gov.on.ca or call the OSC toll-free at 1-877-785-1555.

Protect yourself and stay informed by signing up for OSC Investor News. To subscribe, email investornews@osc.gov.on.ca.

credit: www.newscanada.com

Provincial Constable A.L. Buck, OPP Dufferin Detachment
Phone: (519) 925-3838

<< DON’T DRINK AND DRIVE!! >>

James Doan
Chairman
Mono Community Policing Committee

Proper care and application of decals

With the advent of custom decals, hand detailing has become a less common way to detail a model kit. The quality and accuracy of the most intricate writing and graphics can be easily duplicated with an inexpensive waterslide decal or dry transfer graphic. The number of suppliers is growing every year.

With input from our members at Orangeville Scale Modellers, we have compiled eight of the best common sense tips for proper care and application of decals.

1. Store your unused decal sheets in a photo album. The sheets can be placed in the protective clear pages and arranged in sections for easy reference. Sections might include race car numbers, license plates, flames, graphics, etc.

2. Cut decals from the carrier sheet with a small scissors or sharp hobby knife as close to the art as possible. The less clear film that is visible on the finished model, the better.

3. Before applying decals, carefully wash the body in a dishsoap and water mixture to remove finger oils and dust. Dry the body thoroughly using a lint-free towel.

4. While your decals are soaking in warm water, wet the area of the model upon which they will be placed. Once applied, the decal can be easily re-positioned before being burnished in place.

5. Air bubbles can be easily removed from decals. Poke them with a pin and press down around the bubble to remove the trapped air.

6. After burnishing a decal in place, gently wipe it with a paper towel moistened with a mild household cleaner. This will remove any fingerprints or setting solution.

7. Dry transfer lettering can be used for making your own graphics. Found in art supply stores, it comes in many styles, sizes and colours.

8. Old decals can be removed safely by soaking the model body in brake fluid. Wait until the decals are softened, then gently scrape them off.

Getting organized

While an organizer may be preferred by some as their personal time management system, it may not be the proper tool for everyone. If most of your work day is spent at your desk without a lot of travel to different offices and meeting sites, you will not require a portable organizer. Some people find organizers too bulky and cumbersome.

Guidelines to help you paint a model figure

It has been a long time since I built a model car, airplane or military vehicle. For over thirty years, my interest has been exclusively working with miniature figures. And I don’t get upset if you call them toy soldiers!

Most of the modellers in our informal club, the Orangeville Scale Modellers, are primarily interested in cars and trucks. Whenever we set up a display in the shop’s showcase, I will place a few of my own figures in amongst the range of vehicles from the other members. Almost every time, someone will look at one of my figures and say “I wish I could do that kind of detail work.” And yet, when I look at the detail that they have put into wiring an engine or painting the scripts on a fender, I tell them “You can do that kind of detail work, it’s just in a different setting.”

Figure modelling is no more difficult or easy than any other discipline of modelling. But many people are unsure of trying to complete a figure. The major deterrent seems to be having to paint the figure’s face.

The face, while it can be the critical aspect of painting a figure, is also the area that can prove to be the most satisfying. Just as the quality of the body paint job on a car model is the first thing that most people notice when looking at it, the face is the essence of a model figure.  How well you paint the face will determine your reputation as a figure painter.

Of all the features of the face, the eyes in turn are the most significant. They must be level, the same size and properly located in the face. Never paint the whites of the eyes white! Instead, you should use the highlight shade of the face. After painting the eyeball and socket, next paint a thin, vertical line of brown or light blue through each eye socket for the iris. Then paint a narrower vertical line of black or dark brown at the centre of the iris colour.

Frame the top of each eyeband with a dark brown line for the upper eyelash. Take care to align the bottom edge of each lash line correctly, and be sure to keep the two eyes level. Follow this with half of a bottom lash at the inner side of each eye, making both eyes symmetric.

Now work with the main flesh paint to trim the eyes down to the correct size.

All that remains then is to complete painting the face. With the highlight and shadow colours you can define the character of the face.

As a last step, the hands can be painted with the same colours used for the face. Be sure to add the darkest shadows in the area between the fingers.